A Ferry Ride To Remember: Bella Coola, BC

*Our ferry boat views through the inside passage from Vancouver Island north to Bella Coola, BC.*

Whenever people ask what the highlight of our entire ten-week trip was, our answers point straight to our time in Bella Coola along with our full-day ferry ride leading up to it. While there were many incredible places and moments of the trip, it seems this one always pops into our mind first. Maybe it was because it was brand new territory for us, or a new means of transportation for Loaf and our family, or perhaps because it was an entirely new adventure in terms of wildlife and landscape. Likely a mix of all three, but whatever it was, we were astounded at what we discovered between the tip top of Vancouver Island, through the inside passage via ferry boat, and along the valley floor of Bella Coola.

*Loaf aboard the ferry boat heading north to Bella Coola, BC*

*Books, scratch pads, coloring, legos, made up games…we did it all.*

While I had done 90% of the research and route planning for this ten-week trip, Chip always seems to come up with something incredible to throw in to our itinerary. Way back when, when the snow had just started falling in Durango, Chip stumbled upon an article announcing the renovation and re-opening of the ferry between Port Hardy (the very top of Vancouver Island) and Bella Coola, BC. This full day ride had been put on hiatus for a couple years but anyone who has ridden it would be able to tell you what an absolute beautiful journey it is. We signed up and paid the hefty amount knowing it would be well worth the cash. Months went by as we waited for them to announce if the re-opening was going to take place. Finally, just weeks before we left for our trip in May we received the notification that it was ON!

We spent the night before at the ferry terminal second in line for the ferry. We opted to sleep right there because pre-boarding and check-in began at 6 am. After safely loading Loaf on the ferry, we headed up to scope out the dining room, seating areas, and upper deck (for 360 degree views)! A snapshot of the day looked something like this…Heading north, the ferry took us through the inside passage, past hanging glaciers, towering mountains, cascading waterfalls, and alongside different species of breaching whales (also Orcas!) plus frolicking dolphins. We did everything from build legos, eat lunch, read books, mingle with other passengers all while admiring the passing of islands. The crew even invited the boys to the bridge (which I learned is what they call the command center, or where the captain steers the boat from). The entire ferry trip ended up being ten hours long and while Chip and I were “on” the whole time it really was one of our favorite days. We loved it ALL and as usual, the boys were enjoying it as much as we were!

*The boys taking in the views from the captain’s chair in the boat. We were the only ones lucky enough to be invited in to the Bridge.*

Ferry Views…While Building Legos…

*Views from the upper deck while sailing through the inside passage up to Bella Coola, Canada*

There isn’t really a moment of culmination because the entire journey north is unbelievable. The end though really made me speak copious amounts of ‘holy shits’ under my breath as we pulled into the Bella Coola marina. I can see why this place is so special to people who have visited, live here, or grew up here. It is undeniably gorgeous. And now I must apologize in advance for picture overload! I’m not gonna lie, this place was STUNNING!

*About to pull in to the Bella Coola Marina after ferrying for 10 hours from Port Hardy, Vancouver Island*

*Just seconds from our free campsite in Bella Coola*

The jibs cruising along our private river campsite. Dump trucks (always) for the win.

*Loaf was in his element, driving through some pretty incredible scenery in Bella Coola, BC.*

*Made a pit stop at the school to play with kids*

The usual, messing around on bikes. Also, a slice of our view at Rip Rap Campsite in Bella Coola, BC

Rip Rap Campground, Bella Coola BC

Sometimes campgrounds are just a place to lay your heads at night and sometimes they are more than that. Rip Rap Campground is definitely more than a place for campers to rest at night. This place had 360 degree views, lush grass, a roaring river, hiking/biking trails, clean bathrooms, and a fun cabin filled with games, books, and more. The views alone had sold us but it truly was a campground I will never forget.

We spent most of our days in the wilderness (trying to see grizzly bears but trying not to see grizzly bears, if you know what I mean). We hiked, played along the river, biked around town, and enjoyed our surroundings. On our last day, it was really hard to say goodbye to this special place. I recall allowing my eyes to soak in every last view of this place, in case I never got to see it in person again.

There is only one road out of Bella Coola which zig zags and wanders along the valley floor for miles until finally we reached the famous Heckman Pass. I was a little apprehensive about climbing out of the valley via Heckman Pass. A high winding mountain pass, all gravel, no guardrails, and sheer drop offs hundreds of feet below. Yes, it was a stunning climb but Chip had to remind me several times to look out at the views, not straight down from my window where I envisioned us hurling hundreds of feet to our death. After what seemed like a long enough climb out, we finally summitted. With our adrenaline still racing (we had made it!), it was then that we saw our first grizzly bear!!!!! We were beyond thrilled. We stopped Loaf, turned the engine off right in the middle of the gravel road, and watched in awe for several minutes. There is nothing quite like watching wild animals in their own habitat.