Take Me Back To Zihuatanejo, Mexico

*Views of Zihuatanejo - Playa Madera to the right and Playa Principal to the left.*

This was a “covid trip” that I wasn’t entirely sure would come to fruition. Delta cases were on the rise, the boys were in school five days a week which meant they were exposed to more germs, and talk of countries’ restrictions tightening were rumored. I started worrying again that we might get sick and not be able to go. But the three weeks off had been requested for nearly a year and we had yet to decide on a place. We juggled different destinations for months. Spain, Iceland, Paris, Italy (Again. Our plan last year had failed thanks to covid). All these places seemed unattainable still. We couldn't agree on a place we really wanted to visit in the U.S. in the fall. So many variables. Too many variables. But our soul was craving something…different, semi-adventurous, somewhere with culture and language. Perhaps somewhere tropical?! Chip had heard of this place along the Pacific coast of Mexico called Zihuatanejo (or Zihua, pronounced Zee-wah for short). So one sunny summer afternoon he bought plane tickets on a whim to this specific spot and sent them to my inbox as a surprise. I was surprised and ecstatic, as well as ready for family time, travel outside the United States, and to be going somewhere I had never been yet.

The day finally arrived for us to board our flight to Mexico and I was still in denial that we would soon be sitting beachside in the Mexican humidity. One layover in Phoenix, and a two and a half hour flight and we were beginning our descent into Zihua. Exactly what my eyes were dreaming it would look like was true. Mountainous green jungle sprawl as far as the eyes can see. Rivers in-between snaking this way and that. My excitement was out of control. And when we walked off the plane, so was my sweat. Let’s just say it wasn’t a warm welcome but a hot one.

Who, What, When, Where, Why…

Some quick info on Zihua, because we had actually never heard of it before this year. Maps are below for some geography. Zihua is situated along the Pacific coast in the state of Guererro, Mexico. What appealed to us about this location was the Bay of Zihuatanejo, which has five different beaches or areas to explore: Playa Principal, Playa La Madera, Playa Contramar, Playa La Ropa and Playa Las Gatas. All close together in proximity but a different feel to each of them. We had also heard that further north along the coast were a couple unique surfing towns. With that in mind, we decided to spend one week in Zihua (Playa La Ropa to be exact) and one week in Troncones (~45 minutes north).

So why Mexico? By now you probably know we have always been drawn to this diverse country. We’ve driven through Baja by campervan, visited the areas of Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita on a few occasions, checked out border towns while in Texas, and when younger vacationed in Cancun, Playa Mujeres, and Tulum. Every time we leave wanting more. More beaches, more culture and traditions, more friendly locals, delicious cuisine, Spanish language, different way of life, history, wildlife, nature, and the list goes on. To us it is magic here. So that is why we keep going back.

The plane doors swung open, and the humidity came rushing in like an ocean wave swallowing up all the cool, dry air conditioning in seconds. As we deplaned down the metal stairs, the boys’ first question was about the police. “Why are they carrying machine guns?” “And why do they look scary?” They asked. We had to explain the safety here and that it is a different way of life from where we live. Many good lessons to be taught while traveling.

After a quick trip through customs (the airport is super small!), we busted out of our sweaty jeans and long shirts and into shorts, flip flops, and tanks. Much better! Then hailed a taxi to take us to our airbnb in Playa La Ropa, Zihua. Our first taste of the Mexican hospitality that we so desperately missed was thanks to our taxi driver. He spoke mostly in Spanish - Chip obviously understood it all and could converse back. I was able to piece together info well enough but still struggled having a full-on conversation. He told us about himself, the area, and even took the scenic route to our home for the next week.

Playa La Ropa

Easily a favorite to fall in love with, and why we picked this spot as a home base for week one, was Playa La Ropa. Our airbnb was a short two minute stroll to the ocean. We rented a two bedroom/two bath house in a small complex with a pool ($56/night!!!!). It was gated, on the second floor, and as far as we could tell only one other unit was rented (Ruben and his wife with a cute orange kitty). We felt very safe here. Since we were visiting in the off season the only other tourists we really noticed were Mexican vacationers, typically visiting on the weekends. No one spoke much English and it was fantastic!

*Here is Tomas, our neighbor kitty, with the boys.*

*If not in the ocean, then we are in the pool.*

*Views of the jibs swimming from our balcony.*

Relaxing balcony views from our airbnb.

From our place several tienditas, or mini stores, lined the path to the beach and we often treated ourselves to Magnum double chocolate ice cream bars from one of them once we worked up an afternoon appetite post-swimming. This beach was our hot spot for body surfing in the waves. We had a blast catching them at the right time, the ocean shooting our bodies forward like a rocket! With the ocean temperatures in the 80’s we could stay out for hours at a time which was a major bonus.

The tienditas between our airbnb and the beach.

A timelapse of the walk from our airbnb to Playa La Ropa.

Throughout our week here, we discovered some delicious, never to be forgotten restaurants in Playa La Ropa. On our first morning here, we stumbled across an adorable place with cheap Mexican breakfast called Las Adelitas. With the meals only costing between $2.50 and $4.00 each, we had a hard time not going every morning. The boys always ordered pan frances con fruta (they began ordering their own meals in Spanish by day two) while Chip and I fell in love with the Mexican breakfasts complete with an array of salsas and fresh, piping hot tortillas. I will dream of this place in the coming months I presume.

*Reid and his pan frances - always with freshly squeezed orange juice*

Sunsets along Playa La Ropa

Another restaurant worthy of writing home about was Jungle Pizza. We had read the reviews but what really sold us on a visit was our neighbor, Ruben (mentioned above), who just so happened to own Jungle Pizza! He also is the owner of Tomas, the kitty that visited us every morning with a meow at our door. The wood fired pizzas were divine and the margaritas were plentiful and beyond tasty. One glass was enough as they were the size of our heads!

Playa Las Gatas

The next beach south from ours was Playa Las Gatas, and we heard it was heavenly. There were no cars, roads, or really any houses apparently. The only way to access this beach was a 15 minute hike along the jagged shore from Playa La Ropa or a ride in a boat taxi. We opted for a hike because how else will we work off all that Mexican food!?

Swimming at Playa Las Gatas

*A homemade game of horseshoes…but with flip flops instead.*

All the things we heard about Las Gatas were true. Rounding the last rocky section of the trail, we were greeted with tranquil, azure blue water and a half a dozen beach side restaurants backed by a sea of swaying palm trees. You could snorkel here, though we didn't. The bonus to this beach were the offshore surf waves. I could see Chip immediately get “the look” as he began scanning the beach for signs of a surfboard rental. Though he found no rentals, he quickly befriended a local surfer who let him borrow a board. While Chip got in a quick surf sesh with his new amigo, the boys and I took a dip. It felt like a warm bath!

After swimming, we posted up under a palapa at Franko's restaurant. I happily practiced my Spanish with him, we ate quesadillas, drank yolis (the local Sprite), bought rings from Dani, and swung on the plethora of hammocks strung up around the restaurant. It was official. I loved this place! After spending several lazy hours here discussing life and how things have changed due to covid with Franko, we decided to make the trek back to our casa for the night. We were so grateful for the memories on this special beach.

*Hammocks and sandy floors should be required for all family restaurants - the perfect kid entertainment!*

*This was Dani. His silver jewelry was stunning so the boys got to pick out some rings.*

*Caught the handstand but not the jump shots. Next time.*

Playa Madera

On three separate occasions throughout our first week we visited Playa Madera. It instantly became a favorite spot! Prior to each visit, the boys would gather their pesos and present them to the woman on the beach renting out boogie boards. “50 pesos for one hour,” she'd say in Spanish (but she always gave them two hours). The boys would call out a quick “gracias” then together they’d sprint to the ocean with their boards balanced on top of their heads. Off they'd go, not to be seen for hours.

Happy for hours boogie boarding while Chip and I were at happy hours for hours :) — *Happy for hours boogie boarding while Chip & I were at happy hours for hours :)*

*Reid discovered he may enjoy surfing after all when he decided to stand up on his boogie. I feel surfing in his future…….*

Besides the occasional dip in the ocean, Chip and I discovered a bunch of activities to keep us busy. Not to worry, situated under a palapa we could do many things! We ordered food and tropical drinks, plus bought several different things from vendors passing by (including fresh mangos, souvenirs, & even live music one afternoon from a sweet older gentleman). By our third visit we became somewhat of a VIP at one of the restaurants and the kind owner set up a table for us even though they were packed.

But the main attraction for us adults were the beach massages! You heard me right. Massages right on the sand. When we found out they were only 300 pesos for one hour ($15 USD), we about lost our minds. Yolanda swiftly became our favorite. She was incredible. I’ve never felt better. She did all the traditional massage techniques in swift movements (our fave!) as well as hot stones and cupping. Heaven on the beach! We will never forget Playa Madera.

*So much time for conversation and stories on vacation.*

*A tropical drink with a view of my boogie boarding jibs. Now that is the life!*

*We saw an inviting swimming pool and just had to try it out.*

This sweet man and his wife would walk the beach each day singing and playing songs on his guitar for tourists.

Playa Principal

The last, but technically the first by name and location was La Playa Principal. I would describe this as the beach in front of downtown Zihuatanejo and the main hub of the city. We taxi'd in one morning to explore, stopping off at Carmelitas for breakfast first. After filling our bellies, we busted out into the busy streets to find market after market, vendor after vendor. Because of covid, it felt unreal to be in the mix of this type of environment again. Everyone was respectful and wore masks, but the streets were bustling and alive. I stopped at one of the open air markets filled top to bottom with fruits and veggies to stock up, as well as practice my Spanish. Afterwards we found the beach and walked the boardwalk that extends to Playa Madera, where of course we decided to stay and play at for awhile.

The highlight from this area though was our trip on Thursday afternoon to Santa Prisca, a famous Pozoleria. Only open on Thursdays might I add so it had to be good. It seemed everything we read or heard from previous visitors mentioned not to miss Santa Prisca. We just had to see what the buzz was all about so we decided to arrive just after they opened at 1 pm. An unassuming place from the outside but as we descended the stairs, the restaurant was filled with locals and live music (I had to giggle as the band was playing Brown Eyed Girl). And yes, the food was to die for!

*Probably our top meal of the trip at Santa Prisca - Pozoleria*

We love you, Mexico

So far this location of Zihuatanejo along the Pacific Coast has exceeded our expectations in many ways. We truly didn’t know what to expect as we didn’t do much research until after we arrived. Being wrapped up in the Mexican hospitality, insanely perfect weather, and warm swimmable ocean that we love so much has us feeling all the feels. We are sinking deep into the family time we have been craving so bad. Oh, Mexico. You win again.

Next Up…

We continue our journey north for more sun, sea, surf, and of course, Mexican cuisine in the small village of Troncones! We also experience one of our favorite moments of the YEAR as a family!

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